Knit Fabric: What It Is, Types and How to Sew It
A guide to knit fabric: how knits are made, weft vs warp knits, jersey, rib, interlock and Milano rib, how to choose the right one and how to sew it.
Knit fabric is made of loops of yarn linked together, rather than two sets of yarns crossing at right angles as in woven fabric. This structure makes it soft, comfortable and almost always stretchy: it is the fabric of T-shirts, sweatshirts, knitwear and many dresses that follow the body.
This guide to knit fabric is written for tailors, designers and brands: how knits are built, the difference between weft and warp knits, the most common types, how to choose the right one for each garment, how to sew it and where to find it among Zerow's deadstock fabrics, surplus from Italian luxury houses and mills.
What is knit fabric?
In woven fabrics such as plain weave or twill, two sets of yarns cross at right angles: the warp runs lengthways and the weft runs across. In knit fabric, the yarn forms a series of loops, the stitches, which interlock in horizontal rows (courses) and vertical columns (wales).
The loops can stretch and spring back, which gives knits their typical stretch even without elastane. For the same reason, a knitted fabric shapes itself to the body without darts and creases very little. For an overview of every fabric family, read our guide to the types of fabric.
Weft knit vs warp knit
There are two main families of knit, and they behave very differently:
| Weft knit | Warp knit | |
|---|---|---|
| How it is made | One yarn forms the loops across, row after row | Each needle has its own yarn, loops link vertically |
| Machines | Circular (tubular knit) or flat | Warp knitting machines (tricot, raschel) |
| Stretch | High, especially across the width | Lower, more stable structure |
| Ladders | Can run if a yarn breaks | Does not ladder |
| Examples | Jersey, rib, interlock, Milano rib, sweatshirt fabric | Tricot for lingerie and swimwear, raschel, some tulles |
Almost all the knits used in clothing are weft knits, and that is what this guide covers.
The most common types of knit
Jersey
Jersey is the simplest and most widespread knit: the face shows rows of small "V"s, the back shows horizontal loops. It is light and soft, but cut edges tend to curl. We cover it in depth in our guide to jersey fabric.
Rib knit
Rib knit alternates raised ribs on the face and back. It stretches a lot across the width and recovers well, so it is used for cuffs, collars, waistbands and close-fitting tops.
Interlock
Interlock is a double knit made of two interlocked layers: it looks the same on both sides, is denser and more stable than jersey and does not curl. It suits heavier T-shirts, dresses and childrenswear.
Milano rib
Milano rib (punto Milano) is a compact double knit with little lengthways stretch. It has good structure and a clean drape, which is why it is used for jackets, skirts and dresses with a tailored look.
Sweatshirt fabric and wool knits
Sweatshirt fabric is a jersey with an extra yarn forming loops on the back, left as they are (loopback) or brushed for warmth (fleece-back). Wool knits, plain or ribbed, are the basis of jumpers, cardigans and soft outerwear.
Knit fabric properties: pros and cons
| Pros | Cons |
|---|---|
| Stretchy and comfortable, moves with the body | Can lose shape if pulled while sewing or hung wet |
| Shapes to the body without darts | Jersey curls at cut edges |
| Creases very little | Weft knits can ladder |
| Soft and pleasant on the skin | Cotton can shrink in the wash |
| Wide range of weights, from light jersey to chunky knit | Some fibres pill with friction |
Are knits always stretchy? Not to the same degree: jersey and rib give a lot, Milano rib and heavy interlock much less. Adding elastane increases stretch and, above all, recovery.
How to choose the right knit
Before you choose, check the weight, composition and stretch on the technical sheet, and whether the knit is tubular or open-width: tubular knits have a fold line that can remain visible.
| Garment | Suitable knit |
|---|---|
| T-shirts and tops | Cotton or viscose jersey, light interlock |
| Leggings and fitted pieces | Jersey with elastane, rib knit |
| Cuffs, collars, waistbands | Rib knit |
| Structured dresses and skirts | Milano rib, heavy interlock |
| Sweatshirts and joggers | Loopback or brushed sweatshirt fabric |
| Jumpers and cardigans | Wool knit, chunky knit |
How to sew knit fabric
- Use a ballpoint (jersey) needle or a stretch needle: it slips between the loops instead of piercing them.
- Choose stitches that stretch: a narrow zigzag, your machine's stretch stitch or an overlocker; for hems, a coverstitch machine or a twin needle.
- Cut knits flat, without letting them hang off the table, and follow the wales as you would the straight grain.
- Do not pull the fabric while sewing, and stabilise shoulders and necklines with tape so the seams do not stretch out.
Care and washing
Wash knit garments inside out on a gentle cycle with water that is not too hot, and avoid the tumble dryer unless the composition allows it. Heavy and wool knits should be dried flat, because they stretch when hung wet. If the garment will be washed, pre-wash the fabric before cutting so any shrinkage happens first. Always follow the fabric's care label.
Where to buy deadstock knit fabric
Zerow sells deadstock fabrics: surplus and end-of-run stock from Italian luxury houses and mills, already made and so requiring no new production. For makers, that means couture-grade quality in limited, often unrepeatable quantities: once a roll is gone, that fabric may not come back.
Fabrics are sold by the full roll. There is also a selection of fabrics cut to length, usually from a minimum of 10 metres: the details of each fabric, including how it is sold, are shown on the product page. Businesses with a VAT number have dedicated terms, and samples are available to everyone.
Knit fabric: frequently asked questions
Is knit the same as jersey?
No. Knit is the whole family of fabrics made from loops; jersey is the simplest and most common type of knit. Rib, interlock, Milano rib and sweatshirt fabric are knits too.
Is knit fabric always stretchy?
It almost always gives a little, but by very different amounts: jersey and rib are very stretchy, Milano rib and heavy interlock much less. Elastane increases stretch and recovery.
What is Milano rib?
A compact double knit with little lengthways stretch, which drapes cleanly and holds its shape. It is used for jackets, skirts and dresses with a structured look.
What is the difference between interlock and jersey?
Jersey is a single knit, different on each side, with edges that curl; interlock is a double knit, the same on both sides, denser and more stable.
What needle should I use for knit fabric?
A ballpoint needle, also called a jersey needle, or a stretch needle for knits with elastane. The rounded tip parts the loops without breaking them.
Can I order a sample before buying?
Yes, samples are available to all Zerow customers, private and business. It is the best way to judge handle, weight and stretch before ordering by the roll or cut to length.
