Linen fabric: properties, types and linen vs cotton
A guide to linen fabric: what it is, properties, types, linen vs cotton, how to limit creasing and how to sew, wash and press it.
Linen is a natural fibre taken from the stem of the flax plant. Linen fabric is cool, very strong, dry to the touch and slightly irregular, and it softens with every wash. It has one real drawback: it creases easily. It is the summer fabric for shirts, dresses and trousers, and it is also used for jackets and home furnishings.
This guide is for tailors, designers and brands. It covers what linen is, the properties of the fabric, the main types, how it compares with cotton, how to limit creasing, how to sew it and where to find it among Zerow's deadstock fabrics, surplus from Italian luxury houses and mills.
What is linen?
Linen is one of the oldest textile fibres used by humans. It is extracted from flax stalks through a series of steps: retting, which separates the fibres from the rest of the plant, then drying, breaking and combing, as Britannica describes. Long fibres give smooth, even yarns; the shorter ones, called tow, give thicker, more rustic yarns.
The same source notes another key quality: linen absorbs and releases moisture quickly, which is why it stays cool on the skin even in the heat.
Properties of linen fabric
- Cool and breathable: it absorbs sweat and dries fast.
- Very strong, stronger than cotton, and long-lasting.
- A dry hand and a slightly irregular surface, with the typical slubs.
- Low elasticity, which is why it creases and holds folds.
- Softer with every wash.
Types of linen fabric
| Type | Character | Typical uses |
|---|---|---|
| Pure linen (100%) | The coolest and most textured, creases the most | Summer shirts, dresses, trousers |
| Cotton-linen blend | Softer, creases less, more affordable | Trousers, jackets, dresses |
| Viscose or lyocell blend | More fluid and drapey | Dresses, blouses, soft trousers |
| Washed linen | Soft, with a lived-in look and intentional creases | Casual shirts and dresses |
| Stretch linen | With elastane, more comfortable and less rumpled | Trousers and jackets |
| Linen jersey | Light, cool, stretchy knit | T-shirts and tops |
| Linen denim and drill | Heavier twills | Summer jeans, workwear trousers |
Linen vs cotton: the differences
| Property | Linen | Cotton |
|---|---|---|
| Coolness | Very high, dries fast | Good, dries more slowly |
| Hand | Dry, textured | Soft, smooth |
| Strength | Very high | Good |
| Creasing | Creases easily | Creases less |
| Season | Mainly summer | All year |
| Price | Higher | More affordable |
In short, linen is the better choice when coolness and character matter, cotton when you need softness and easy care. Cotton-linen blends sit in between: cooler than cotton, less rumpled than pure linen. For shirting, see our guide to shirting fabric.
Why linen creases, and how to limit it
The flax fibre is stiff and not very elastic: once folded, it does not spring back on its own. Creases are part of its character. To reduce them, choose a blend with cotton, viscose or a little elastane, a heavier or washed linen, and press the garment while still damp.
What linen is used for
- Summer shirts, blouses and dresses.
- Trousers and unstructured jackets: see our guide to trouser fabric.
- Lightweight men's suits, also in wool blends such as fresco wool.
- T-shirts and tops in jersey versions.
- Tablecloths, curtains, cushions and upholstery.
Sewing, washing and pressing linen
- Pre-wash the fabric the same way you will wash the garment: pure linen can shrink.
- Finish edges well, as linen frays: French or flat-felled seams are ideal.
- Use a universal 80/12 or 90/14 needle depending on weight, and a medium stitch.
- Wash at moderate temperatures and avoid a fast spin, which sets creases.
- Press with a hot iron while the fabric is still damp, or with plenty of steam.
Buying deadstock linen fabric
Zerow sells deadstock linen: surplus and end-of-run cloth from Italian luxury houses and mills, already made and so needing no new production. For makers, that means couture-grade quality in limited, often unrepeatable quantities. Once a roll is gone, that linen may not come back.
Fabrics are sold by the full roll. There is also a selection of fabrics cut to length, usually from a minimum of 10 metres: the details of each fabric, including composition and how it is sold, are on the product page. Businesses with a VAT number have dedicated terms, and samples are available to everyone.
Our linen fabric collection includes pure linen and blends with cotton, viscose, lyocell and wool: plain weaves, jersey, drill, jacquard and upholstery fabrics. For fibres and weaves, read our guide to the types of fabric.
Linen fabric FAQs
Is linen cool or warm?
Cool: it absorbs and releases moisture quickly and lets air through. It is one of the best fabrics for summer.
Does linen shrink?
Pure linen can shrink on the first wash, especially at high temperatures. Pre-wash the fabric before cutting.
Pure linen or a blend?
Pure linen is cooler and has more character but creases more. Blends with cotton, viscose or elastane are softer and easier to handle.
Is linen see-through?
It depends on the weight: light plain weaves in pale colours can show through, medium and heavy weights are opaque. Check a sample.
Can I order a sample before buying?
Yes, samples are available to all Zerow customers, private and business. It is the best way to judge handle, weight and opacity before ordering by the roll or cut to length.
