Flannel fabric: wool or cotton, types and uses
A guide to flannel fabric: how it is made, wool and cotton flannel, types, winter or summer, and how to sew and wash it.
Flannel fabric is a soft, warm cloth with a napped surface, brushed to raise a light pile. It is made mainly in wool or cotton, and also in blends with viscose and synthetics. Wool flannel is the classic cloth for winter trousers and suits; lighter cotton flannel is used for shirts and nightwear.
This guide is for tailors, designers and brands. It covers what flannel is, wool versus cotton flannel, the main types, whether flannel is for winter or summer, how to work with it and where to find it among Zerow's deadstock fabrics, surplus from Italian luxury houses and mills.
What is flannel fabric?
Flannel is a plain or twill-woven fabric, usually made with carded yarns, that is napped after weaving, often on both sides. The napping ranges from slight to so heavy that the weave disappears, and it traps still air between the fibres, which is why flannel is warm, as Britannica explains.
Flannel is closely linked to the wool tradition of Wales, where it was made as early as the sixteenth century, and it has remained a staple of winter tailoring ever since.
Wool flannel or cotton flannel
| Feature | Wool flannel | Cotton flannel |
|---|---|---|
| Hand | Soft, full, matt | Soft, lighter |
| Warmth | Very warm and breathable | Warm but less insulating |
| Look | Often mélange or classic suiting patterns | Often checks, tartan or stripes |
| Care | Dry-clean or hand-wash | Machine-washable |
| Typical uses | Trousers, suits, jackets | Shirts, nightwear, casual pieces |
To learn more about the fibre, read our guide to wool fabric.
Types of flannel fabric
- Pure virgin wool flannel: the finest, warm and tailored, for trousers and suits.
- Wool-blend flannel: with polyester or polyamide, tougher and easier to handle.
- Cotton flannel: soft and washable, for autumn and winter shirts.
- Flannelette: a light cotton flannel, often checked, for shirts and pyjamas.
- Stretch flannel: a viscose blend with elastane, comfortable and fluid, for women's trousers.
- Patterned flannel: Prince of Wales, houndstooth, tartan, gingham and stripes.
Is flannel fabric for winter or summer?
Flannel is an autumn and winter fabric: the napped surface traps air and keeps you warm. Wool flannel is the most wintry; light cotton flannel, such as flannelette, also works in spring and autumn. For summer, smooth, open cloths such as fresco wool are a better choice.
What flannel fabric is used for
- Winter trousers, its most classic use: see our guide to trouser fabric.
- Men's and women's suits and jackets, especially in grey and mélange.
- Autumn and winter shirts in cotton flannel: see our guide to shirt fabrics.
- Skirts, pyjamas, dressing gowns and childrenswear.
Sewing and washing flannel
- Cut every piece with the nap running the same way, or the colour may look different from piece to piece.
- Pre-wash cotton flannel, which shrinks; pre-shrink wool flannel with steam.
- Use an 80/12 or 90/14 needle and a medium stitch; flannel does not slip and sews easily.
- Press from the wrong side with steam and a pressing cloth so you do not flatten the nap.
- Dry-clean wool flannel or hand-wash it in cold water; machine-wash cotton flannel cool and inside out.
Buying deadstock flannel fabric
Zerow sells deadstock flannel: surplus and end-of-run cloth from Italian luxury houses and mills, already made and so needing no new production. For makers, that means couture-grade quality in limited, often unrepeatable quantities. Once a roll is gone, that flannel may not come back.
Fabrics are sold by the full roll. There is also a selection of fabrics cut to length, usually from a minimum of 10 metres: the details of each fabric, including composition and how it is sold, are on the product page. Businesses with a VAT number have dedicated terms, and samples are available to everyone.
Our flannel fabric collection includes pure virgin wool and wool-blend flannels, cotton flannels and flannelette, stretch flannels and classic patterns. For fibres and weaves, read our guide to the types of fabric.
Flannel fabric FAQs
What is flannel made of?
Mainly wool or cotton, but also blends with viscose, polyester or polyamide. What defines flannel is its napped surface, not the fibre.
Does flannel felt?
Wool flannel does if washed hot or spun: dry-clean it or hand-wash in cold water. Cotton flannel does not felt, but it can shrink.
Does flannel pill?
The napped surface can form small pills where it rubs, especially in synthetic blends. Good pure wool and cotton flannels pill less.
What is the difference between flannel and fleece?
Flannel is a woven wool or cotton fabric with a brushed surface. Fleece is a synthetic knit, usually polyester, with a higher, bulkier pile.
Can I order a sample before buying?
Yes, samples are available to all Zerow customers, private and business. It is the best way to judge handle, weight and colour before ordering by the roll or cut to length.
