What Is Shearling? Fur, Faux Shearling and Pony Hair Compared
A guide to shearling: what it is, how it differs from fur and faux shearling, how it compares with pony hair leather, its uses and how to care for it.
Shearling is sheepskin or lambskin tanned with the wool still on: one side is leather, suede or finished, the other a soft fleece sheared to an even length. It is one of the warmest materials in fashion, the one behind flight jackets, winter coats and lined boots.
This guide to shearling is written for leather goods makers, designers and brands: what it is, how it differs from fur and faux shearling, how it compares with pony hair leather, how to use and care for it, and what you will find among Zerow's deadstock leathers.
What is shearling?
The name comes from the verb to shear: originally it meant the skin of a recently shorn lamb, with short wool. Today shearling means sheepskin tanned with its wool, which is then sheared to the desired length. Garments are usually worn with the leather outside and the wool inside, which is why shearling coats are also simply called sheepskin coats.
The leather side can be suede or finished smooth or printed; the wool side can be straight, curly or dyed. For the difference between leather finishes, read our guide to chamois vs suede.
Shearling, fur and faux shearling
| Shearling | Fur | Faux shearling | |
|---|---|---|---|
| What it is | Sheepskin with its own wool | Pelt of fur-bearing animals with their hair | A fabric imitating fleece, usually polyester |
| Structure | One material: leather and wool together | Long hair on thin skin | Pile fabric, often bonded to another fabric |
| Warmth | Very high and breathable | High | Good, but breathes less |
| Weight | Heavy | Varies | Light |
Many products sold as shearling are actually synthetic: on genuine pieces the label states sheepskin, lambskin or shearling leather.
Shearling properties: pros and cons
| Pros | Cons |
|---|---|
| Very warm, even in moderate thicknesses | Heavy and bulky |
| Wool absorbs moisture and breathes | Dislikes water and direct heat |
| Moulds to the body with wear | Needs specialist cleaning |
| Long-lasting with good care | Expensive, both material and making |
What shearling is used for
- Flight jackets and bombers, the garment that made shearling famous.
- Coats, gilets and detachable collars.
- Boots, slippers and shoe linings.
- Linings for gloves, hats and winter accessories.
For lighter, less warm garments, sheepskin leather without the wool, in suede or smooth finish, is very soft and well suited to clothing.
Shearling or pony hair leather?
The two are often confused because both have hair, but they are very different. Despite its name, pony hair leather usually does not come from horses: it is cowhide, often calf, tanned with its short, glossy hair left on.
| Shearling | Pony hair leather | |
|---|---|---|
| Animal | Sheep or lamb | Usually bovine, often calf |
| Hair | Longer, soft wool, straight or curly | Short, smooth, glossy hair |
| Warmth | Very warm | Little insulation |
| Look | Soft and bulky | Flat, often animal-printed |
| Typical uses | Jackets, coats, boots, linings | Bags, shoes, belts, details, interiors |
In short: choose shearling for warmth, pony hair for visual impact on accessories and details.
How to care for shearling
- Brush the suede side with a soft brush to remove dust and lift the nap.
- If it gets wet, let it air dry away from radiators and heat sources, which dry out the leather.
- For stains and deep cleaning, use a specialist leather cleaner: washing in water can ruin it.
- Store it hanging in a breathable cover, away from direct light.
Where to buy deadstock leather
Zerow sells deadstock leathers: surplus and end-of-run stock from Italian luxury houses and tanneries, already made and so requiring no new production. Genuine shearling is available in very limited quantities; in the sheepskin collection you will also find sheep leathers without wool, suited to clothing.
Leathers are sold by the skin: choose how many skins you need, and the product page shows the average m² of each skin, its thickness and the other specifications. Businesses with a VAT number have dedicated terms, and samples are available to everyone.
Shearling: frequently asked questions
What is shearling?
Sheepskin or lambskin tanned with the wool on: leather on one side, a soft sheared fleece on the other.
Is shearling fur?
No. It is sheepskin with its own wool, a single material; fur in the strict sense comes from other animals and has long hair on a thin skin.
How can I tell real shearling from faux?
Real shearling is a single material, with the wool rooted in the skin and leather on the back; faux shearling is a pile fabric, often bonded to another fabric. The label states sheepskin, lambskin or shearling leather.
What is the difference between shearling and pony hair leather?
Shearling is sheepskin with soft, warm wool; pony hair is usually cowhide with short, glossy hair, used for accessories and details rather than warmth.
Can shearling be washed?
Better not in water: it can stiffen the leather and felt the wool. Use a specialist leather cleaner.
Can I order a sample before buying?
Yes, samples are available to all Zerow customers, private and business, for leathers too. It is the best way to judge handle, colour and thickness before ordering.
