Nubuck leather: what it is, nubuck vs suede and care
A guide to nubuck leather: what it is and how it is made, nubuck vs suede, pros and cons, types, uses, rain protection and cleaning.
Nubuck leather is leather, usually calfskin, lightly buffed on the grain side, the outer side, to create a velvety surface with a very short, dense nap. It feels like suede, but it is denser, stronger and more even in appearance. It is used mainly for shoes, bags, belts and jackets.
This guide is for leather goods makers, shoemakers, designers and brands. It covers what nubuck is and how it is made, nubuck vs suede, pros and cons, the main types, uses, how to protect it from rain and clean it, and where to find it among Zerow's deadstock leathers.
What is nubuck leather and how is it made?
Nubuck starts as tanned leather, almost always bovine, whose grain side is passed over a very fine abrasive. The buffing barely opens the surface and raises the outermost fibres into a short, even nap. Because the work is done on the grain, the densest and strongest part of the hide, nubuck keeps much of its strength.
The result is a matt, soft material that shifts slightly in tone when you brush the nap in different directions. Since the grain itself is buffed, nubuck calls for good-quality hides with few surface flaws.
Nubuck vs suede: the differences
Suede, by contrast, is made by buffing the flesh side, the inside of the hide, as Britannica notes in its entry on suede. All the other differences follow from that.
| Feature | Nubuck | Suede |
|---|---|---|
| Side buffed | Grain (outer) | Flesh (inner) |
| Nap | Very short, dense, barely visible | Longer and softer |
| Look | Even and compact | More irregular and fuzzy |
| Strength | Higher | Lower |
| Handle | Firm | Very soft and drapey |
| Typical uses | Shoes, bags, belts | Jackets, shoes, soft accessories |
For suede and genuine chamois, read our guide to chamois vs suede.
Properties of nubuck leather
| Pros | Cons |
|---|---|
| Velvety handle and a refined, matt look | Dislikes water, grease and stains unless treated |
| Stronger than suede | Marks more easily than smooth leather |
| Breathable and comfortable | Needs dedicated brushes and products |
| Deep, even colours | The nap can go shiny where it rubs |
Types of nubuck
- Calf nubuck: the most common, dense and strong, for shoes and bags.
- Lamb nubuck: thinner and softer, suited to garments.
- Embossed nubuck: with a pressed grain, such as peccary.
- Soft nubuck: finished for a softer handle, even in heavier weights.
- Oiled or water-repellent nubuck: treated to cope better with water, typical of outdoor footwear.
What nubuck leather is used for
- Shoes: sneakers, ankle boots, loafers and outdoor footwear, its most common use.
- Bags and small leather goods, for a soft, matt look.
- Belts and accessories.
- Jackets and garments, in thinner lamb nubuck.
- Interiors, for upholstery and details.
Calf nubuck is one of the many faces of calfskin leather.
Is nubuck ruined by rain? Protecting and cleaning it
Yes, untreated nubuck absorbs water: rain can leave watermarks and stiffen the nap. Treat it before use with a protective spray for nubuck and suede, and repeat regularly. If it gets wet, let it dry naturally away from heat, then brush the nap to revive it.
- Brush regularly with a soft or crêpe brush, following the nap.
- Use a nubuck and suede eraser for light marks.
- Treat grease stains straight away with a dedicated product, or go to a specialist.
- Avoid creams and polishes for smooth leather: they flatten and darken the nap.
Working with nubuck
- Cut with a sharp knife or cutter, from the grain side, checking the nap direction on every piece.
- Handle the leather with clean, dry hands: nubuck picks up marks and oil easily.
- Use leather needles and apply glue sparingly: glue that seeps through stains the nap.
- Brush the finished piece to even out the nap before delivery.
Buying deadstock nubuck leather
Zerow sells deadstock nubuck: surplus and end-of-run skins from Italian luxury houses and tanneries, already made and so needing no new production. Quantities are limited and variants are rarely repeated: once a skin is gone, it may not come back.
Leathers are sold by the skin, so you choose how many skins you need. Each product page shows the average m² per skin, the thickness and the other specifications. Businesses with a VAT number have dedicated terms, and samples are available to everyone.
Our nubuck leather collection includes calf and lamb nubuck, embossed and soft; for suede, see our suede leather collection. For an overview of all leathers, read our guide to the types of leather.
Nubuck leather FAQs
Is nubuck real leather?
Yes: it is genuine leather, usually calfskin, buffed on the grain side to make it velvety. It should not be confused with synthetic microfibres that imitate its look.
Nubuck or suede for shoes?
Nubuck is stronger and more even, so it lasts longer in daily use; suede is softer and more casual. Both should be protected with a spray.
Can nubuck shoes get wet?
Best avoided if untreated: water leaves marks. With a protective spray they cope with light rain; if they get wet, let them dry naturally and brush them.
How do you clean nubuck?
With a soft or crêpe brush and a dedicated eraser for light marks. No creams for smooth leather; for stubborn stains, go to a specialist.
Can I order a sample before buying?
Yes, samples are available to all Zerow customers, private and business, leathers included. It is the best way to judge nap, handle and colour in person.
